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Nepenthes, New York’s Last Great Independent Boutique, Is a Hidden Gem of the Garment District

Westman Atelier’s New Lip Suede Isn’t Your Traditional Lipstick — Here’s Why

The Yam Soup That Keeps Norma Kamali Energized

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Anine Bing’s guide to Los Angeles

Anine Bing’s guide to Los Angeles

Anine Bing’s guide to Los Angeles

Image credit: @aninebing Instagram

The Danish designer has lived in Los Angeles for 15 years and gives Vogue her city tips.

What is your favourite part of Los Angeles?
“Our neighborhood in Hancock Park. I love the cute main street with shops and restaurants, farmers market and ice cream places.”

Where is your favourite place for breakfast in Los Angeles?
“Go get em Tiger! It’s a cute café on Larchmont and  they serve the best almond latte in town.”

Where is a fun place to eat out in Los Angeles?
“There are so many great restaurants here so it’s hard to choose but for a fun night out with my girlfriends I often choose to go the Chateau Marmont. It’s fun people watching and it has great ambiance.”

How about somewhere romantic?
“Pace! It’s located up in Laurel Canyon and it will always be one of my favorite restaurants.”

What are your favourite places to go shopping in Los Angeles?
“Rose Bowl. It is THE best flea market in town and I can spend hours there looking for cool vintage t-shirts, boots, candle holders and furniture.

But I also want to mention the Anine Bing boutique on 3rd street in West Hollywood – it’s one of my favorite Anine Bing boutiques and it’s located on a great street with plenty of other fun stores and restaurants so it’s a perfect place for shopping and dining.”

Are there any places in Los Angeles that are off-the-beaten track?
“You should definitely take the car and drive up the coast. Make a stop at Point Dume and walk down to the local beach there. It’s quiet and so so beautiful. The water is turquoise and there is always dolphins and sometimes whales to be seen.

I also love going to Wi Spa. It’s a Korean spa that gives you the best scrubs and massages. The kids loves it too so it’s a great spot for the whole family.”

Where are your favourite vintage and markets in Los Angeles, and what do you buy from them?
“As well as Rose Bowl, there is also the market on Fairfax and Melrose. You can find so many beautiful gems that I just love bringing home.”

Where are your beauty places in Los Angeles?
“Favorite nail salon is Belle Cure.  Lisa Satorn (works at Ken Paves salon) does the best color and Jen Atkin cuts my hair.”

Where would you take a tourist for their first time in Los Angeles?
“Hmmm. I’m not a big fan of the tourist spots so I would try to stay as far from them as possible. I would probably take her on a hike to show how beautiful L.A is and how much great nature there is really close to town.”

Out of the tourist spots in Los Angeles, which are the best ones to go to?
“I would go to the Grove. That’s where the oldest farmers market is located but they also have all the shops you can imagine.”

How would you describe LA style?
“It’s a great mix between rock n’roll and a bohemian vibe. I love the LA street style and how unique and personalized it is. No one looks the same!”

How has your personal style evolved since moving to LA?
“I have always had a love for leather jackets, denim and a relaxed way of dressing. But after moving here I think the bohemian side of me has started to show a bit more. I love wearing hats and to accessorise more.”

The Jeans That Give You Legs for Miles

Marianne McDonald on her label McGuire and the perfect pair of jeans.

After working at Gap and Joe’s Jeans, designer Marianne McDonald went out on her own withMcGuire, a denim label appreciated for its work-wear roots and polished look.Favorite pair of jeans you ever owned and why:
While I’d like to say I have one favorite, probably the opposite is true. I think I start most sentences with, “This is my favorite jean…” and it will always be a new pair of jeans we’re experimenting with around the office. Today my favorite is our Valetta Straight. It feels glamorous yet easy.Color or cut of jean you’re excited about right now:
I can’t stop wearing my Inez Patch Flares in Kansas City, named after the favorite hangout of David Bowie and Bebe Buell. For these we took our cues from classic patch pocket pants from the 60′s and 70’s. The welt pockets at the top and just a peek of gold hardware hint at the decadence of that era.What do you try to accomplish with every season?
I’ve always loved the idea of a glossy take on heritage denim. My design team and I are inspired by the concept of clothing being able to make your life better. A bit more glamorous, a bit more fun…for Spring we have our fringe legging in Ponyboy. I love seeing the girls running around the office with a half tucked tee with the swish of fringe ready for post-work festivities.Why did you choose to design and focus on jeans?
Denim is one of the only mediums in fashion that you beat up, knick, sand, and bleach in the hopes of being able to tell a story and illustrate a past, present or future that you imagine. That, combined with the ability to magically look like you have the bum of a ten year old…and legs for miles doesn’t hurt either.

Tell us one trick of the trade:
There’s a moment in the dressing room when you’re trying on some fantastic piece and you imagine how owning it will transform your whole life. When we’re in fittings I make sure the model has officially been transported to Lake Como with her lover, Giovanni.

Denim style that you wish you could resurrect from the grave.
The first-ever created jean from Nimes, France.

Is there a city that inspires you?
Having lived in New York or L.A. for most of my life, I’m naturally drawn to these cities and I like the idea of creating a wardrobe that translates well in both.

Favorite denim icon:
Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall. He’s a chameleon and she’s Jerry Hall.

New Brand To Watch: McGuire Jeans

McGuire’s designer, Marianne McDonald, is an experienced denim person, having formerly worked for Joe’s and GAP. Just recently she decided to create her own denim brand:

-”I’d like to think the collection brings to life this idea, of the luxury in utility, by pushing the boundaries of traditional workwear, rendering it relevant for the modern creator – with silhouettes that lengthen the legs, slim the thighs and give new life to the workwear and architectural details that inspired the collection.” –

While traveling in France, Marianne visited Nîmes- the birthplace of denim in the 1500s. It is there, after continually seeing the city’s motif of the crocodile chained to the palm tree, that she decided it would be the inspiration behind the button of her soon-to-be denim collection.

And as we, the Denimology team, totally supports environmental and charity efforts, we give a big KUDO’s to Marianne and wish her a lots of success in her new venue – see below:

-”McGuire has partnered with Nobel Laureate Wangari Matthai’s organization The Greenbelt Movement and will plant a tree for each piece sold. “I chose The Greenbelt Movement because of its efforts to combat deforestation through community building and the empowerment of women. (The Greenbelt Movement hires women in Kenya to plant seedlings, lead environmental stewardship seminars and tend to the tree nurseries thereby improving their local environment and providing economic stability through employment opportunities.) I found the empowerment of women particularly exciting since we’re a denim collection designed for women and I think that women helping women is something we should all strive for.” –

The collection is made completely in Los Angeles with stretch fabrics from Italy and Turkey.

 

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10 Minutes with an Entrepreneur: Edie Parker’s Brett Heyman

SAT, MARCH 2, 2013

 

Photographed by Noa Griffel

In a former life, Brett Heyman was Gucci’s director of public relations (who also held stints at Elle, Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana). Now? She’s the designer behind Edie Parker’s cool Fifties- and Sixties-inspired clutches.

What inspired the line?

It was an accident really. I had no intention of starting my own line — I just wanted to remake the vintage acrylic clutches I could no longer find because I loved wearing them. Every time I wore a clutch someone stopped me to ask about it. There aren’t a lot of brands that focus on evening bags, so I got to work and here we are!

And the name? There are a lot of chic Edies in fashion…
Edie Parker is my daughter’s name. But, yes, there have been many chic Edies! I have a picture of Edie Sedgwick hanging in my office, and I have watched Grey Gardens more times than I care to admit.

What do you love about the Fifties and Sixties?
I’m absolutely drawn to that period of postwar America. Fashion, architecture and design began to experiment with new materials during this time. American fashion was setting trends globally, and part of this innovation was the use of plastic, acrylic and metal.

Who are your style icons from that era?
There are too many to name. Pretty much if you were French and in fashion in the Sixties, I love your style! Loulou de la Falaise, Charlotte Rampling, Betty Catroux. I’m also always referencing photos of Babe Paley, Gloria Guinness, Marella Agnelli, Diana Vreeland, Slim Keith, etc. These are women who clearly loved getting dressed and were passionate about their accessories.

What’s the best fashion advice you’ve gotten?
Wear a garment, don’t let it wear you.

And business advice?
Oh, gosh — I could use some! Is Tory free to talk? Charles Schwab once said — and obviously not to me — that “a person can succeed at almost anything for which they have unlimited enthusiasm.” I think that’s a great thought.

The most exciting part about owning your own business?
Freedom, creativity, creating a culture.

What keeps you up at night?
Freedom, creativity, the pressure to create the right culture.

Lessons learned from your previous jobs?
I have had amazing experiences. Being in the proximity of Tom Ford, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, and Frida Giannini was exciting. They radiate energy, passion and talent. Following your passion is a great lesson.

What’s next?
Hopefully a lot! I am working on some bags that combine acrylic with skins, leather and other materials. I am working on new shapes and new sheets that are digitally printed. We are launching fantastic acrylic hinged bangles and I hope to continue making jewelry. The list of what I want to make is limitless!

SPRING 2014 READY-TO-WEAR Norma Kamali

SEPTEMBER 12, 2013
NEW YORK
By Brittany Adams

Norma Kamali could teach a college course on the history of sweatshirt dressing. Perhaps that’s because she was an early architect of the sporty trend, which has gained major traction in recent years. At a preview of her latest Spring lineup, Kamali pulled out a scan of an archival WWD spread from 1980 featuring staff members modeling her terry separates, which were revolutionary at the time but would fit right into any glossy editorial spread today. “I thought I’d had it with sweats. Then I started getting all of these requests for them again because that’s what girls are gravitating towards now,” said Kamali. “So I decided to reintroduce them in a modern way. After all, activewear is a big part of my brand’s DNA.” This season, the designer demonstrated just how versatile the athletic staple can be, whipping up easy cotton hoodies, tanks, and crop tops equipped with classic kangaroo pockets. She also showed a variety of pieces cut from the same soft material, including fishtail maxi skirts, rhinestone-studded midi dresses, and bomber jackets with billowing sheer sleeves that definitely weren’t intended for the gym. Case in point was a white racerback tank gown done in a thinner technical jersey also used throughout Kamali’s Interactive Active sub-collection of workout apparel. It hugged all the right curves and was the kind of thing you might picture Maria Sharapova getting married in. While competition is steep in the novelty sweatshirt market these days, Kamali proved that it’s hard to beat an original.

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014RTW-NKAMALI

Rag & Bone / Fall 2013 RTW

by Mark Holgate

Perhaps, in between designing collections for women and men, kick-starting an ever-growing accessories division, and pursuing a global expansion that’s going at a rapid clip, Rag & Bone’s David Neville and Marcus Wainwright could write a quick how-to guide on successful brand building. But since they probably don’t have the time for that, let me do it for them here instead. Their message would likely boil down to this: Know Who You Are, Know What You Can Do, Then Just Do It. Neville and Wainwright clearly already know all of this, because they did just do it, if their incredibly strong, persuasively focused, and brilliantly direct-in-its-appeal fall collection is anything to go by. It was dressed up but also casually downbeat. It had newness but also familiarity. It borrowed from the boys, but also sent it all back to them, because Neville and Wainwright realized they could come up with something better for the girls.

The “girl,” their “girl,” is, of course, important to them. It’s who they talk about, who they design for, who they want to bring into sharper focus from the corner of their eyes. Oftentimes, designers will talk about their “girl,” and you don’t think she ever existed beyond the fancy of a design studio. But the Rag & Bone girl is everywhere you look, living downtown (even if in reality that’s more of a state of mind for her than a reality), standing beside you on the subway, going on a juice detox, watching Girls, getting drunk after said cleanse. In short, a living, breathing, fun creature that they have learned to dress instinctively, and rightly.Backstage, Wainwright and Neville talked about what had inspired fall. The notions of sixties minimal-chic air travel that then morphed into fighter planes, hence the mix of a short, graphic, texture-rich (quilt-effect stitching abounded) look fused with utilitarian detailing (drawstrings, leather ribbed banding). Skirts were super-abbreviated, collars on sweaters stood away from the neck or rolled over, an homage to Camelot-era Jackie, while the coats were superbly worked—in particular, a green trench whose sleeves were articulated the same way as an airforce jacket back in the forties, and which took ten go-rounds to get right. The color palette was lifted from the airplane world, too, fusing darkly somber, military service shades of black, gray, and olive, contrasted with a judicious use of deep purple, seafoam green, and a flash of an orange that originated from the lining of a MA1 flight jacket. And, because they’re both English, their nationality came into play, too, with a disrupted Prince of Wales check that close-up looked like it had been rethought by Bridget Riley. With all this, they wisely kept the styling to a minimum—a slash of black at the eyes, dark thigh-highs, and one of their pilot bags, patched in leather and synthetics, firmly grasped in hand, and looking as coolly compelling as most everything else here.

New York Top 5 | Rag & Bone

In the sea of traditional American sportswear that’s been New York Fashion Week, the boys over at Rag & Bone stand apart with inspirations that are clearly from other shores. Vests with hanging watch fobs, scarfs as cravats, greatcoats and brocaded evening jackets were all a far cry from the campus quad fashions and heritage brands being shown around town. The gentlemanly trappings were grounded with officer’s boots and military-inspired pieces that gave the collection proper heft. A blanket striped jacket (more Welsh than Hudson Bay) in earthy neutrals layered on top of a vest, underneath yet another jacket and paired with wider wool trousers, looked enviably wearable and still runway worthy.